Calzone

Folded hot from the oven, the top blistered and golden, steam escaping the second the knife goes in.

• Neapolitan dough, stretched by hand and baked hot.
• Ricotta, spooned in cold so it turns creamy.
• Ham, folded through the middle.
• Thirty centimetres across, one fold, sealed shut.

A calzone is a pizza that keeps its own steam, which is why the ricotta stays soft while the crust goes crisp. Ours goes in at Neapolitan heat, comes out charred in spots, and gets cut at the table. Mild, filling, and easier to share than it looks. Contains: gluten, dairy (inferred).