MEZZE MANICHE WITH TRUFFLE

Fresh truffle does the talking here — shaved over hot pasta so the aroma hits the table before the plate does.

• Mezze maniche, the short ridged tubes that trap sauce.

• Fresh truffle, shaved to order.

• Truffle sauce, rich and earthy.

Mezze maniche is the practical choice for a truffle dish: those ridges and that wide, open tube hold sauce far better than a smooth strand, so nothing slips to the bottom of the bowl. The sauce goes down first, the pasta is tossed through it while it's still hot, and the fresh truffle is shaved over the top at the pass — the heat is what releases the aroma. It's a plate that arrives smelling like more than it looks. Vegetarian. Contains: gluten. May contain: traces of other allergens from the kitchen.