Nigiri Tuna

Two pieces of bluefin tuna, sliced and laid over warm rice, the kind of thing that disappears in a single bite.

• Bluefin tuna, cut to order.

• Sushi rice, pressed while still warm.

• A dab of wasabi between fish and rice.

Nigiri is the simplest test of a sushi counter: rice seasoned right, fish sliced clean, nothing hidden under sauce. The tuna goes on the rice by hand, one piece at a time, and it should reach you close to the moment it was made. Eat it first, before anything else on the table. Contains: fish.